Marine biologists call it the epicenter of ocean biodiversity. Divers call it the last paradise. Both are right — and getting there is half the adventure.
I filmed here from a liveaboard for two weeks — the reefs are unlike anything else I've shot underwater. Here's how to plan it.

When to go
Liveaboard season is October to April — calm seas and manta season. May to September gets windy in the south; some boats reposition.
What to do
- Manta stations — Dampier Strait cleaning stations at current.
- Barracuda tornados — stay still, let them wrap around you.
- Wayag viewpoint — the karst lagoon panorama — steep, short, unforgettable.
- Night dives — walking sharks and coral spawning if lucky.
- Village visit — Papuan hospitality, ask your cruise director.

Photography tips
Wide angle rules here — the story is density and color. Shoot up-current edges of the reef where the fish stack, and use the divers in your group for scale.
Bring double batteries and silica gel: humidity is relentless, and charging windows on the boat are short.

