Freediver above a large school of mobula rays in the Sea of Cortez

Mexico · Travel Guide

Baja California

La Paz & Espíritu Santo · May – June · 6 min read

Sea lions that play with your fins, mobula rays by the thousand, desert islands in a turquoise sea — Baja California Sur is the wildest ocean experience in North America.

I run freedive expeditions here — the Sea of Cortez is «the world's aquarium» for a reason. Here's how to experience it right, and responsibly.

The sea lions are located next to La Ventana and are reachable by boat.

If you want a touring experience, go on a boat and explore a lot. You can also check out my expedition that I do every year under my Expeditions. We will be there for the manta rays.

Sea lion colony resting on the rocks at Los Islotes
The sea lion colony at Los Islotes — curious, playful, and completely in charge.

When to go

For the mobula aggregation: late May to June. Sea lions are great year-round; October/November adds whale sharks near La Paz.

What to do

  • Swim with sea lions — Los Islotes, morning light, 7mm optional.
  • Mobula season — night bioluminescence swims if you’re lucky.
  • Espíritu Santo camping — desert island nights under the Milky Way.
  • Freedive training — the calm bays are perfect for a course.
  • Tacos in La Paz — the malecón at sunset, fish tacos, repeat.
Freediver on a single breath in deep blue open water
One breath, blue water, and a thousand mobulas somewhere below.

Photography tips

Underwater: shoot up against the surface light, and let the animals come to you — fins down, calm breathing. A dome port and 16–35mm covers everything.

Top-side, the desert-meets-sea contrast is the story: red rock, cardón cacti, turquoise shallows — fly the drone at sunrise before the wind.

Jeep reflected in the flooded mirror surface of the Salar de Uyuni
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